Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
